by Alan LookBest Look Magazine
A Conservation Victory and a Photographer's Paradise
There are few sights in nature more stirring than the white head of an American Bald Eagle gleaming against the slate-grey winter sky of the Upper Mississippi River Valley. For decades, this sight was nearly lost to us. Today, however, thanks to one of the most successful conservation efforts in history, the "King of Skies" has returned to the Heartland, reclaiming its throne along the icy waters of the Mississippi—specifically around the engineering marvels of the locks and dams.
This is the story of their comeback, and your guide to witnessing it firsthand near Gladstone, Illinois.
From Silence to Soaring: The Comeback Story
In the mid-20th century, the American Bald Eagle was teetering on the brink of extinction. The widespread use of DDT, a pesticide that caused eggshells to become dangerously thin, decimated populations across the lower 48 states. By 1963, there were only an estimated 417 nesting pairs left.
The road to recovery began with the banning of DDT in 1972 and the protections afforded by the Endangered Species Act. It was a slow, steady climb, but nature is resilient. In 2007, the bald eagle was officially removed from the endangered species list—a monumental victory for conservationists.
Today, the Upper Mississippi River acts as a critical wintering corridor. As northern waters freeze, thousands of eagles migrate south, seeking open water to hunt. This migration funnel brings them directly to our backyards in Illinois.
Why Locks and Dams? The Dinner Bell
You might wonder why these majestic raptors congregate around industrial structures like Lock and Dam 18. The answer is simple: it’s an all-you-can-eat buffet.
The turbulence created by the roller and Tainter gates prevents the water from freezing, even in the dead of winter. This provides eagles with constant access to the river.
As fish pass through the dam's gates, they often become disoriented or stunned by the pressure changes and turbulence. They float near the surface, making them easy pickings for the eagles waiting in the cottonwood trees lining the banks.
Destination: Gladstone, Illinois (Lock and Dam 18)
While many flock to larger cities for eagle watching, the area around Gladstone, Illinois, offers a more intimate, rugged experience. Located just north of Burlington, Iowa, Gladstone serves as the gateway to Lock and Dam 18.
Unlike the crowded festivals in larger Quad Cities locations, the Gladstone area is often quieter, allowing for a more reflective experience with nature.
The lock is situated roughly in the middle of the river, accessible via long embankments. During peak migration (December through February), it is not uncommon to see dozens—sometimes hundreds—of eagles roosting in the tall trees or riding the ice floes.
The best viewing is often from the Illinois side, where the "Great River Road" offers scenic pull-offs. The earthen embankments provide elevation, giving you a near eye-level view of eagles soaring over the river.
Capturing the soul of the heartland, photo tips for the amateur
For those looking to document this spectacle, the Upper Mississippi offers a masterclass in wildlife photography. The interplay of industrial steel, flowing water, and wild biology creates a unique visual narrative.
Bring the Reach: A 300mm lens or longer is standard. Eagles are large, but they respect their distance.
Watch the Exposure: The white head of an eagle can easily "blow out" (lose detail) against a dark background. Underexpose slightly to preserve those feathers.
Patience is Key: Wait for the "stoop"—the moment an eagle dives from its perch to snatch a fish.
Tips for planning your trip ~- Best Time: Mid-January to early February.
- Time of Day: Early morning (active feeding) or late afternoon (roosting).
- Gear: Binoculars, warm layers (wind chill on the river is unforgiving), and a camera.
For over 25 years, Alan Look has documented the soul of the Midwest — from Friday night lights to roaring chrome, from agricultural grit to locomotive legends. See more of more thoughts and photos from Alan Look on his blog at Best Look Magazine.
